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All about Swedish Lapland in winter: our best tips for planning your trip

All about Swedish Lapland in winter. Beautiful scenery outside our igloo. In the foreground there is one camping table with two small chairs and breakfast upon the table. On background another glass igloo.

Swedish Lapland during the winter is an absolute dream destination! Here, you can admire the Northern Lights, live unique experiences such as crossing the dense Scandinavian forests aboard sleds pulled by huskies or with snowshoes on your feet, or take part in the traditional activities of the Sami, the local indigenous population. If you’re dreaming of exploring this wonderful land, this article is for you!

Here you’ll find all about Swedish Lapland in winter: what to see, how to get around, where to stay and where to taste delicious local dishes.

In November 2021, we had the amazing opportunity to visit this wonderful region by spending a whole week in Sweden. We spent 5 days in Lapland and 2 days on the round trip to and from Italy. In this article, we’re going to share some useful information to help you plan your trip.

If there’s anything else you need to know that we haven’t covered in the article, please don’t hesitate to ask us any questions you may have in the comments box at the bottom of the page!

When to go to Swedish Lapland

We just wanted to give you a heads-up that everything is really very expensive in Swedish Lapland, as well as in Finnish Lapland.

So, it might not be the cheapest trip ever, but we promise it’ll be totally worth it! We really think you’ll love this region, but we do have one piece of advice: visit right before or right after the tourist season (late November or early April).

That way, you can enjoy the same splendid scenery as the high season, but with significantly lower costs.

How to get there

If you’re looking for the quickest and easiest way to reach Swedish Lapland, then a flight is definitely the way to go! You can fly from the main European cities to the small airport in Kiruna, which is the main centre of the region. You’ll have a stopover in Stockholm, but it’s totally worth it! You can easily compare all the different offers here.

If you’re looking to save some money and have a couple extra days to spare, we highly recommend you land in Stockholm by plane and then experience the incredible Polar Express night train. This amazing train crosses the entire country from top to bottom, connecting the beautiful Swedish capital to the Norwegian town of Narvik, which overlooks the Norwegian Sea beyond the Arctic Circle.

The Polar Express is a truly magical experience! As the sun rises, you’ll be treated to a breathtaking view of the Lappish region as the train winds its way through the countryside. The train will naturally stop in Kiruna and Abisko, two of the most important tourist destinations in Swedish Lapland.

It’ll be a lovely break before the long journey continues for another 18 hours and 30 minutes, ending in the beautiful Norwegian village of Narvik, 200 km north of the Arctic Circle. However, just a heads-up, it’s not a direct connection.

You’ll have to change vehicles in the lovely town of Boden in northern Sweden, where you’ll arrive bright and early in the morning.

Polar Express from Stockholm Central Station to Narvik, Norway. Train in a station.

The night trains leave Stockholm Central Station at around 6 or 9pm, and they’ll get you to Kiruna in just 16 hours and 30 minutes (including a change in Boden). Once you’re on the train, you can choose whether to purchase a seated seat (which we really don’t recommend, given the length of the journey) or a comfortable berth to sleep in.

If you choose the latter, you can opt for second-class compartments with 3 or 6 beds, or first-class compartments with private cabins equipped with every comfort (shower and bathroom in the room included). Prices naturally vary depending on your choice.

For shared cabins, they start from just €90 each, and go up to €250 for the most comfortable options. You can buy your Polar Express tickets directly on the official website of the railway company.

We really hope you have a better experience than we did with the Polar Express! Our experience on board this train was a bit of a challenge. The derailment of a freight train a few days earlier in the north of the country had actually affected the railway network, so tourists heading to Kiruna had to do a bit of a journey (sleeper night train to Boden -> train seat to Gällivare -> coach to Kiruna).

Despite the less-than-ideal situation, which caused us a slight delay of about three hours on the way out (and at least four on the way back), we still managed to enjoy the wonderful awakening in a postcard-like snowy landscape! We really hope you get the chance to experience this for yourself! It’s such a wonderful experience!

View from inside the coach from Gallivare to Kiruna.

Where to sleep in Swedish Lapland

We would love to give you our advice for a 5-day stay in Lappish land! We think you should stay two nights in Kiruna and two nights in Abisko (this is what we did). On the fifth day, we didn’t need to worry about booking a hotel because the night train to Stockholm would be leaving in the evening.

We hope you find these suggestions helpful! We’ve included the addresses and costs for our overnight stays, which we would highly recommend. These are based on our experience at the end of November.

We had such a lovely first night in Kiruna! We stayed at the wonderful Aurora Camp Kurravaara, which is set inside a glass igloo and is really quite unique. It’s located on a frozen river, which was really quite magical. For this first night in Swedish Lapland, we decided to go with our gut and enjoy a unique experience, even if the price of the room was a bit steep.

If you’re lucky, you might even be able to see the Northern Lights from your bed! The next morning, you’ll find everything you need in your minibar for a truly unique outdoor breakfast. It’s the perfect way to start the day, immersed in the deepest silence of the Arctic forest.

  • ADDRESS: Uddenvägen 11, 981 46 Kiruna, Sweden
  • COST OF IGLOO WITH DOUBLE BED: €230 for one night (mid season)
Two glass igloos on the frozen river in Kurravaara.
Tiziano having breakfast outside the glass igloo on the camping table. On the background the trees of the swedish forest.

We had a lovely time in Abisko, staying at the Abisko Guesthouse & Activities for the second and third nights. Abisko is a really lovely little town (just 85 inhabitants) so the accommodation options are very limited.

So, if you’re thinking of going, be sure to book quickly! However, we had a wonderful time at this lovely property! We had a double room with a shared bathroom and kitchen, and both rooms were so clean.

  • ADDRESS: Kalle Jons väg 5, 981 07 Abisko, Sweden
  • DOUBLE ROOM COST: €275 for two nights
View from outside of the Abisko Guesthouse & Activities. Minivan in the foreground and the guesthouse on the background.

We had the most wonderful time at the enchanting Camp Ripan in Kiruna. This lovely place is really well looked after, and it’s also very convenient because it’s just a ten-minute walk from the centre of Kiruna.

The hotel offers its customers a series of cosy bungalows with typical Lappish furnishings, creating a truly warm and intimate atmosphere. And there’s more! There’s also a lovely heated outdoor swimming pool on site, where you can admire the Northern Lights (for a small fee).

  • ADDRESS: Campingvägen 5, 981 35 Kiruna, Sweden
  • DOUBLE ROOM COST: €144 for one night
Claudia inside the room at Camp Ripan. A chair in the foreground and the double bed in the background.
Breackfast inside Camp Ripan. Our table in the foreground with three dishes in front of a big window. Outside the window a lot of snow.

If you’re looking to spend a night in Stockholm before or after your Lappish adventure, we highly recommend the lovely Unique Hotel Jungfrugatan (Jungfrugatan 7A, 114 44 Stockholm, Sweden).

It’s a great option for those looking for a clean and spacious room at a low cost. It’s just a 5-minute walk from Stockholm’s wonderful historic market (Östermalms Saluhall) and 13 minutes by bus from Central Station.

Claudia in Gamla Stan, the historical centre of Stockholm. Behind her colorful houses.
Tiziano and Claudia smiling in Stockholm's City Centre. On the background the City Hall and a blue sky.

Books to read before visiting Sweden

We’ve put together a list of three books that we think you’ll love before you head off on your trip to Sweden. We really think you’ll get so much more out of your trip to Sweden if you take the time to learn a little bit about the country’s history, geography and society.

This will help you understand a bit more about what you are visiting and you won’t make the mistake of judging without knowing the facts. This is 100% true for any destination and any trip!

Lagom – The Swedish Art of Balanced Living

The cover of Lagom.

“Lagom: The Swedish Art of Balanced Living” is about the Swedish concept of “lagom,” which means “just the right amount” or “moderation”. It is about balance, simplicity, and sustainability in daily life. Reading this book you’ll be introduced to lagom, its cultural significance and its application in work-life balance, sustainable living, and home design. The book also promotes a balanced approach to diet, physical health, and mental well-being. Buy it here!

Lonely Planet – Sweden

The cover of Sweden Lonely Planet

“Lonely Planet – Sweden” is THE travel guide to Sweden. It helps travellers plan and enjoy their visit, covering major cities and smaller towns, as well as rural areas, with information on attractions, activities and local culture.

The guide includes details on transport, visas, money, language, and accommodation, from cheap to fancy. It also looks at Swedish food, with ideas for restaurants, cafes and bars. Take advantage of this guide for all the practical information you may need during your trip. Buy it here!

The girl with the dragon tattoo

The cover of The girl with the dragon tattoo

The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo is the first book in the Millennium trilogy by Stieg Larsson. We recommend reading all three books, even if we think the first is the best. This mystery and thriller novel combines themes of mystery, crime, and social commentary. It explores violence against women, corruption, and abuse of power.

Through the narrative, Larsson harshly criticizes Swedish society, highlighting its shadows and dark sides. Also, if you don’t feel like reading the book, the Hollywood movie starring Daniel Craig as the protagonist has also been released.

Here your link to buy it!

How to move around Swedish Lapland

While the lovely towns of Kiruna and Abisko are easily accessible on foot, the main naturalistic attractions are all found in their surroundings, which can make travel a little tricky. While we were in Lapland, we decided not to rent a car because we didn’t want to drive on roads that were completely covered in ice.

It would have been a bit tricky for us as we’re not very experienced drivers in extreme conditions! We had to rely on taxis, public transport and private hotel shuttles, which was a bit of a challenge! To reach Abisko, 94 km away from Kiruna, we used the shuttle that the hotel made available to us (at a cost of €38 per person) and which you can book directly on their website.

However, for the return journey, we took advantage from a guided excursion, which started in Abisko and took place near Kiruna, asking to be kindly accompanied to Camp Ripan.

On our last day in Kiruna, we took the local bus number 501 to reach the Nutti Sámi Siida, a lovely Sami village located in the village of Jukkasjärvi, about 20 km from the town. Here all the info you need to get to this amazing spot, which is definitely worth a visit while you’re in Lapland.

In conclusion, it really depends on your attitude! If you prefer to rent a car with studded tyres, you’ll certainly have greater autonomy when travelling. Otherwise, you can still rely on a good network of alternative transport options. All things considered, the cost is pretty reasonable.

What to do in Swedish Lapland

We know that a large part of your budget on this trip will necessarily have to be used on guided excursions, especially in the winter months when it can be tricky to move independently. We totally get it!

Relying on local agencies is often the easiest choice, and they often offer to pick you up directly from your hotel, paying a small surcharge. We’ve put together a list of some of the main experiences you can book directly from platforms such as GetYourGuide.

Dog sledding tour

An excursion with a husky sled is an absolutely unforgettable experience that allows you to immerse yourself in uncontaminated nature and enjoy the beauty of the Arctic landscapes.

The tour starts in a lovely Sami village, where you’ll get to meet the adorable huskies and the kind musher, or sled driver. Once you’ve had a quick lesson on how to handle the sled, it’s time to get going!

The sleigh will take you into the heart of snowy forests and breathtaking landscapes, where you’ll have the chance to meet reindeer and other wild animals. The musher will be on hand to teach you how to drive the sled and how to communicate with the dogs, so this experience is suitable for anyone, even if you’ve never driven a sled before!

Once the tour is over, you can enjoy a hot drink and some traditional Sami snacks before concluding the experience and collecting your belongings.

You can even do this activity in the daytime or in the evening, with the hope of spotting the Northern Lights!

Snowmobile tour

Why not rent a snowmobile and take a guided tour through the snow-covered forests? It’s a great way to see the area! Some agencies also offer to provide you with all the necessary equipment, including helmets and ski suits.

Just a heads-up: make sure you have the right gear to keep you warm in the cold! When you’re out on the snow, it’s really important to follow the rules. Staying within the speed limits and sticking to the main roads is the best way to make sure you have the best time possible. And there’s more good news! You can also book this activity at night.

Snowshoe excursions

Snowshoeing is a wonderful way to explore the winter beauty of Swedish Lapland. With snowshoes on your feet, you can easily walk on fresh snow and discover breathtaking landscapes. Excursions can last from a few hours to several days.

Ice fishing tour

Ice fishing is one of the most popular winter activities in Swedish Lapland. In the absence of snow on the surface of the lake, you can drill through the ice and fish in the cold, crystal-clear waters. Whether you are an expert fisherman or a beginner, the local guides will be happy to help you prepare your equipment and advise you on the most effective fishing techniques.

Where to eat

On our first day in Kiruna, we had the most delicious lunch at the FiKA by SPIS in Bergmästaregatan 7. It’s a lovely hotel that opens its restaurant to everyone, even if you’re not staying there. It’s the perfect place to relax for a few hours in a warm, welcoming atmosphere, enjoying good food and company.

In Abisko, we decided to do the shopping and cook in the shared kitchen we had in the hotel. If you want to save money and do the same, just keep in mind that your only possibility of finding food is the Godisfabriken Supermarket Abisko, located on Kalle Jons väg 1, just 5 minutes away from the hotel (open daily 10am – 9pm).

You’ll be amazed at the amount of sweets on sale in these latitudes! For the stop in Narvik, we highly recommend eating directly in a small restaurant inside the city fish market (Fiskekroken Restaurant, in Kongensgate 42). You’ll find the freshest fish there. Just a heads-up, though: on Sundays and Mondays, it’s closed all day!

We were really lucky to be able to buy three guided excursions, which meant we got to enjoy as many meals as we wanted included in the price. This really helped us to save a lot of money on lunches and dinners.

Eating bread outside around the campfire.

On our last evening in Kiruna, we had dinner at the hotel. The Camp Ripan restaurant serves up delicious gourmet dinners based on Arctic specialities. The prices are quite high (40€/45€ pp), but the quality of the food and the relaxing atmosphere are absolutely worth it! If you’re in the area for lunch, you’ve got to try the buffet for just €14 pp!

Main dish at Camp Ripan restaurant. There is a steak with roasted potatoes and a beer.
  • Extra-tip: What does the word “fika” means? “Fika” is a really popular cultural tradition in Sweden. It’s all about meeting up with friends or colleagues for a coffee break, with lots of delicious sweets or sandwiches. Fika is a big part of Swedish culture and is often seen as a great way to take a moment to recharge.

Conclusions

Swedish Lapland is a truly special place where you can experience the Northern Lights, dance around the fire, warm up in a traditional sauna or even try to photograph some of the region’s most iconic animals, including moose, reindeer, wolves and bears!

But Lapland is also a wonderful place to learn about the culture and traditions of the Sami people. Their animistic beliefs are so deeply connected to the soul of the territory.

We really think you’ll love this amazing experience! It’s a chance to experience something truly special that goes beyond time and space. The total cost per person for seven days (flight excluded) is around €1,000 (late November). We think you’ll agree that for this amount you’ll get a lot for your money!

We’re here to help! Please write your questions in the comment box below and we’ll get back to you as soon as we can. Happy Lapland!

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